The 4th highest mountain peak (4680m) in Mexico, Xinantecatl (The Naked Lord), often called Nevado de Toluca. Many agencies offer trips to visit the Lagunas (of the Sun and Moon), but few offer the experience of hiking/climbing Xinantecatl, reaching its peak.
Here's a narrative of my experience, from technical to non-technical standpoints. I never hiked (and climbed) elevations higher than 1000m of altitude from my starting point, even though I live in a place which is 1460m above sea level.
I absolutely recommend the experience.
Arrival, but not yet
I am 7 hours away from Nevado de Toluca National Park. Reaching the entrance of the park, in a place called "Parque de los Venados", 5AM in the morning, during the winter, the temperatures may vary between -8ºC to 0ºC. It's Saturday, 27th.
I spent the night without sleep: the transport wasn't that comfortable. I'm not sure how this is going to be. Generally, I have good endurance, long walks, under the sun. But I never climbed a mountain so high, and in such condition, in a very cold winter, without a good rest. I guess that there's no turning back from here.
After the preparation for the hiking on the base of the park, we moved to the road that serves as entrance to the base of Xinantecatl. It's 3 USD to transport you.
Good socks, clothes with thermal insulation, good boots, gloves, are much welcome. Without it, you will shiver at this time of the day, and the hiking/climbing and descending of the mountain peak, will be difficult. I forgot to bring a beanie, gloves, sunglasses, and they were all missed.
Bring cereal bars, fruits, sandwiches and water (2L) on your backpack. You'll need it. Between climbing and descent (the most time expensive part), it's 10 hours of hiking, climbing and walking, with many of breaks to catch your breath, then eating something and staying hydrated.
There are people selling food on "Parque de los Venados", but most of that, are junk food, and generally expensive. Not recommended.
It's 06:45.
Entrance
7:17, at the entrance of the trail to Xinantecatl, the temperature is of -2º C. As the time goes by, temperature increases and the winter is a bit more gentle.
The horizon and the mountains around, form beautiful landscapes.
It almost feels like you are in another planet.
Our guide is very responsible, warning us about Altitude Sickness, asking us to report about any health condition or incident. From time to time, he mentioned about the importance of taking breaks, getting used with the altitude, and of course, to administer our energies, not spending so much energy: every step, little by little, is the best practice on these conditions.
The trail from the entrance until the crater, was indeed, a warm-up. You being to feel the heart pumping a bit harder, and the breath being more intense, but nothing beyond the expectations mentioned.
The landscapes are constant. They will be always rewarding you during the whole experience.
The Crater
Early in the morning, several people are gathered around, taking photos of Xinantecatl, admiring the view, planning their descents to the lakes of the Sun and the Moon.
It's 08:00 o'clock.
Our plans were (of course) different. We descended on the left side of the crater, where after our warm-up, the journey begins, until the highest of the 4 peaks you see from the top-middle to the top-right of the photo above.
Crossing the Crater
I was wondering that the second peak was the objective, and it sounded easy to just walk little by little, but the altitude, the terrain and the gravity, told me a different story. Entering the park was a warm-up, crossing the crater had a higher level of difficulty, but the toughest part was yet to come.
It's 08:40.
Mountain Sickness was still under the hood, but we kept a good pace, letting the body do its work, adapting to the altitude.
It never ends the beauty of the landscapes. It's just refreshing to observe the immensity of the scenario. The higher we hike (climb at the some point), the more beautiful it becomes.
And of course, the difficulty increases. Mountain Sickness isn't something you can mess with. The breaks are much necessary, staying hydrated and eating. Not even experienced hikers and climbers, can do this, without taking breaks for catching a breath.
Your body needs to get used with the altitude, little by little. Do not underestimate the messages sent by your body, and you will be fine, hiking or climbing.
It's 09:17.
First Peak
A different sight can be seen near the first peak and the flora is unique, yet beautiful. Nearby the crater, you can spot some plants that are almost dry, apparently dead. But getting closer to the peaks, where the temperatures are very low, concentrating humidity (sometimes with snow), with a lot of sun, there are some types of succulents, and even these plants with these beautiful flowers.
It's 10:11.
The slope increases and helmets are now required. From now and on, difficulty increases, with climbing instead of hiking. The flora persists, gently and resilient, at an altitude of ~3800m.
Second Peak
The terrain still demands resistance and concentration, where you step, where you grab. Still, there's much more climbing ahead.
We just started to climb the real thing. First and second peaks were kind of exhibitions of what was coming in our way. Sticking together and cooperation, are necessary.
It's 10:39.
The "Laguna del Sol" was getting far and away from us. The cliff of the second peak, imposes respect, showing the danger of not paying attention to where you step or where you grab. Stay sharp and inclined against the slope, step by step. It will be alright. I guarantee.
The terrain gets rockier than ever and snow starts to be present: never stop over it, for you might slip.
It's 11:10.
It was already 5hs of hiking and climbing. In one of the several breaks we took, I captured this landscape. And as I say before, the nature keep rewarding you with this kind of sights. The altitude here is something like 4200m.
It's 11:37.
Third Peak
The trail was a bit gentle than the usual, hiking instead of climbing, but the cliffs are present then ever, with a the terrain full of giant rocks, impossible to move with two or more individuals over it. The picture from the right looks menacing, but even beginners can climb these slopes, with attention, patience, and a bit of physical condition. Be patient.
It's 12:10.
Last Peak (more cooperation)
We were all feeling tired and wanting to finish the whole thing.
It felt like a never ending hiking and climbing over a mountain full of rocks.
We stood sharp than ever, watching the one that is climbing in front of you, warning the other ones about rocks that were not safe to grab or step. Eventually, we were pushing and praising each other.
Teamwork was indeed, an extra reinforcement for all of us, climbing until the summit, 4.680m.
Behind of us, the peaks and some cliffs, showing us how long we have been climbing and hiking, far away from our starting point. The landscape keeps impressive.
The lady behind me (57), showed a lot of bravery to us. She climbed Citlatépetl (higher than Xinantecatl), but the rocky terrain, full of slopes and some cliffs, was challenging and scary to her. I remember climbing behind her, cheering her up, pointing at safe rocks to grab and step, extending my arm so she could grab and climb, feeling safe. At her own pace, she made it.
It's 12:25.
The Summit
We made that far. I wish I could stay on the summit for a good amount of time. There were a lot of people climbing, and you couldn't stay that long, especially in order to not fall too behind your group.
The summit of Xinantecatl, called "Pico del Fraile". 4680 meters above sea level.
It's kind of surreal, being right here, at the summit, seeing the trail we left behind, right there, between the two "Lagunas". It makes me wonder on how many mountains one must climb on this life, and at many times, we think we cannot overcome the obstacles that these mountains present.
But if we persist, endure, focus on the path we must follow, there rewards are guaranteed, from the satisfaction of climbing the mountain, to a beautiful and refreshing landscape.
It's 12:45
Descent (challenge)
Looking at the summit on this picture, it feels good, the whole satisfaction of reaching it.
Unfortunately, we have to descent, and the conditions are not optimal.
Probably the toughest part of the journey
We took 40 minutes of break here. It's been 6 hours and half, between climbing and hiking. Of course, taking multiple breaks of 3 to 5 minutes, in order to overcome the Mountain Sickness. But still, I
cannot deny that I'm tired, and remember: I spent the night awake.
It's 13:27.
This is the trail.
The terrain here is very slippery, unstable. I wasn't carrying a hiking staff, and I wasn't using the appropriate shoes for hiking (long story).
It's completely normal to fall here, but be sure to fall in the middle of the trail, for there are a lot of slopes and ravines, with hundreds and hundreds of meters down below.
I won't deny that, this part of the journey, was a bit of stressing, but manageable.
The soil is so unstable here. I almost fell to my knees, near the ravine.
Take your time, take the steps you feel comfortable to take. You don't need to rush.
The terrain gets better, more rocks and less instability. But still, watch your steps.
No matter how tired you are, stay hydrated and with something in you stomach: will help you to stay sharp. There's still at least 2hs of descending ahead of us.
It's 14:25.
The landscapes here are not bad. We passed the more menacing part of the trail.
Slopes here are not that steep. The terrain is very stable.
When you are tired, you are tired. But still, this part of the trail, along with the landscape, was a true relief. You can even see the forest down there, final part of the journey.
It's an one of a kind nature that you have here. What a view.
It's 14:45.
The forest is up ahead.
It's 15:15.
It's a different nature here around Xinantecatl. Just as up there, the air is clean. I'd say even better than up there, since it's filled with pine trees and acacias. Besides, you are not anymore in an altitude of 4680 meters here. At maximum, this is 3500 meters.
It's full of trails. We are just following one of the several trails that the forest has.
It's 16:10.
The weather is still pleasant. At this point, I can hardly believe on all we went through, being tired and without sleep. I guess I've never been through a situation like this, being tested all the time, with a group of people.
I realized that, the fact that we stood together, and everyone reached the summit, was all the time, a booster for all us. You may do the whole thing alone but, in a team, you stay strong, overcoming the obstacles way much easier than doing alone.
As a side note, oddly enough, while climbing to the summit, I didn't felt stressed, not even when looking at the cliffs, or when trying to find the right rock to grab or step in.
Different story was the descent.
The nature is so gentle and calm here.
Another gift, I'd say, especially after the descent.
Another reward.
Celebration
One of our guides, Chopes, took us to a countryside kitchen, good food and cheap, 15 minutes away from "Parque de Los Venados".
He paid a beer for us, congratulating us for the endurance after the whole "chinga" that we went through; I paid the tacos for him. He's a quite experienced and humble individual. He knows Nevado de Toluca National Park like the palm of his own hand, climbed to Xinantecatl's peak many times, just as the peak of Citlatépetl (Pico de Orizaba). Trustworthy and friendly individual, indeed.
It's 17:33
Final Words
I felt like Xinantecatl, the whole nature around it and the experience with this group of people, taught me many lessons on this day. I wish that everyone in life could have this experience.
It's a tough task for me, to describe the sensations that you may have during the hiking/climbing of a mountain like this. It's very particular how you might feel, up there. You might feel so small, looking at these colossal landscapes, but at the same time, so brave and huge from inside, due to your resistance and tolerance, being rewarded from time to time, with nature and its landscapes.
Life is full of challenges, and some of them, present themselves almost at the same time, and you have no other choice, rather than to endure, to resist, taking small steps, just as you would do in order to help your body get used with the Mountain Sickness.
For these challenges that may present in your life, they are just like this mountain: you can't climb it in a few hours, running and talking at the same time.
Embrace your limits, respect your capacity, gently pushing your limits.
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In case you want to get in contact with Chopes for his guiding services, here's his facebook.
The agency which offered this experience to us, is Veracruz Adventure.
Very professional and attentive team.
Very professional and attentive team.