The 4th highest mountain peak (4680m) in Mexico, Xinantecatl (The Naked Lord), often called "Nevado de Toluca". Many agencies offer trips to visit the "Lagunas" (of the Sun and Moon), but few offer the experience of hiking/climbing until you reach its summit.
Here's a narrative of my experience. I never hiked and climbed anything higher than 1000m.
Something around 11 hours of trekking (some parts of climbing). A journey that I truly recommend.
Arrival, but not yet
I spent the night without sleep. Transport wasn't that comfortable. I was a bit anxious about the journey, about not being prepared with good clothing, the low temperatures. I wasn't so sure of my endurance in such conditions, to be honest.
During the winter, temperatures vary between -8ºC to 0ºC.
After the preparation for the hiking on the base of the park, we moved to the road that serves as entrance to the base of Xinantécatl. Some vans transport you, from the entrance to the base of the park. 3 USD.
Good socks, clothes with thermal insulation, good boots, gloves, are much welcome. Without it, you will shiver. In my case, I forgot to bring a beanie, gloves, sunglasses, and they were all missed...
Bring cereal bars, fruits, sandwiches and water (2L) on your backpack.
06:20
Beginning
The horizon and the mountains around, form beautiful landscapes.
It's like another planet. Mars kind of thing.
7:17, at the entrance of the trail to Xinantecatl, the temperature is of -2º C.
As the time goes by, temperature increases, slowly.
Our guide warn us about Altitude Sickness, asking us to report any health condition or incident.
He mentions about the importance of taking breaks, getting used with the altitude, to administer our energies. Step by step, is the best strategy.
The trail from the entrance until the crater, was part of a warm-up.
Your heart pumps a bit more. Breath becomes more intense.
Hard to describe how it feels to be there. It's a state of peace, hard to find in other places.
The Crater
08:00 o'clock. Several people gathered around, taking photos of Xinantécatl, admiring the view, planning their descent to the lakes of the Sun and the Moon.
We descended on the left side of the crater. Finishing our warm-up.
Then, the journey begins, until the highest of the 4 peaks you see from the top-middle to the top-right.
Crossing the Crater
08:40. I thought that the second peak was the summit.
Altitude and terrain might deceive your predictions.
Mountain Sickness is always present, although we kept a good pace.
It never ends, the beauty of the landscapes.
The higher we hike, the beautiful it gets. It's just refreshing.
09.17. Difficulty increases. Mountain Sickness...
Breaks are much necessary, as well as staying hydrated and eating, for beginners (as I) or seasoned hikers.
First Peak
A different sight can be seen near the first peak.
The flora is unique, yet beautiful. Nearby the crater, you can spot
some plants that are almost dry, apparently dead.
Getting closer to the peaks, temperatures are very low, concentrating humidity (sometimes with snow), with a lot of sun. You can see some types of succulents, and even these flowers.
It's 10:11.
The slope increases and helmets are now required. Now, it's climbing instead of hiking.
The flora persists, gently and resilient, at an altitude of ~3800m.
Second Peak
The terrain demands more resistance and concentration...
It's 10:39.
"Laguna del Sol" was getting far and far away.
The cliff of the second peak, imposes respect, showing the danger of not paying attention to where you step or grab. Stay sharp and inclined against the slope, step by step, and you'll be alright.
The terrain gets rockier than ever and snow starts to show. Never stop over it, for you might slip.
It's 11:10.
5hs of hiking and climbing. Close to the summit.
The nature here, constantly rewards you with this kind of sights.
4200m.
It's 11:37.
Third Peak
The trail here is a bit gentle than usual, letting you hike instead of climb.
Cliffs, are more present than ever. The terrain is full of giant rocks, impossible to move with two or more individuals over it.
The picture from the right looks menacing, but even beginners can climb these slopes, with attention, patience, and a bit of physical condition.
12:10.
Last Peak (more cooperation)
We were starting to feel tired, wanting to reach the summit.
We stood sharp than ever, watching who is climbing in front of you, warning the others behind you about rocks that were not safe to grab or step. Eventually, we were pushing and praising each other.
Behind of us, the peaks and some cliffs, showing us how long we have been climbing and hiking, far away from our starting point. The landscape keeps impressing.
It's 12:25.
The Summit
Finally, we made it.
I wish I could stay on the summit for a good amount of time. There were a lot of people climbing, and you couldn't stay that long, especially if you don't want to fall behind of your group.
Xinantecatl's summit, called "Pico del Fraile". 4680m.
It's kind of surreal, yet peaceful. One feel so tiny there.
How many mountains one must climb on this life? How many trails? How much one needs to endure in order to reach the summit of something?
Pride, social status, preferences, human stuff, are all small in comparison with the nature and it's magnitude.
Descent (challenge)
Time to descent, and the conditions are not that optimal.
Toughest part of the journey
40 minutes of break, after 6 hours and half, between climbing and hiking.
I was quite tired at this point. More than 24 hours without sleep, takes its toll...
It's 13:27.
The trail...
The terrain is very slippery, unstable. I wasn't carrying a hiking staff, or using the appropriate shoes for hiking. It's completely normal to fall here, but be sure to fall in the middle of the trail: there are a lot of slopes and ravines, with hundreds and hundreds of meters down below.
This part of the journey is a bit stressing, but manageable.
I almost fell to my knees, near the ravine...
The terrain gets easier, with more rocks and less instability. Still, watch your steps.
Stay hydrated, eat some fruit. There's still at least 2hs of descending...
It's 14:25.
Landscapes are not bad, are they?
We passed the more menacing part of the trail.
Not so much slopes. Terrain is very stable. You can even see the forest down there, final part of the journey.
It's an one of a kind nature...
It's 14:45.
Forest up ahead. Getting closer to the end of the journey.
It's 15:15.
Different nature here, although the air is clean, just as up there.
I'd say even better than up there, since it's filled with pine trees, acacias.
We just followed one of the several trail that the forest has to offer.
We moved from a not so friendly descent, to this peaceful surrounding. You can even hear birds singing, and some woodpeckers.
16:10.
The weather is still pleasant. At this point, I can hardly believe on all we went through. I guess I've never went through a situation like this.
We stood together. Everyone reached the summit. You may do the whole thing alone but, in a team, you stay stronger, supported.
Oddly enough, while climbing to the summit, I didn't felt stressed, not even when looking at the cliffs, or when trying to find the right rock to grab or step in.
Different story was the descent.
The nature, still, so gentle and calm here as well.
Celebration
One of our guides, Chopes, took us to a countryside kitchen, good food and cheap, 15 minutes away from "Parque de Los Venados".
He paid a beer for us, congratulating us for the endurance after the whole "chinga" that we went through. He's a quite an experienced and humble individual. He knows Nevado de Toluca National Park like the palm of his own hand, climbing Xinantécatl's many times, just as Citlatépetl (Pico de Orizaba).
Trustworthy and friendly individual, indeed.
17:33
Final Words
Just as this journey, is life itself. We have to endure, to persist, to administer our resources, to concentrate on the present moment, on the process.
There isn't such thing as, having marvelous progress, all of sudden. You may try to run, rushing. You'll only get tired, consuming you energy. Compromising your progress. Several and several steps to be taken if you want to reach the summit, isn't it?
When you are at the summit, you can't measure the mountain. You're just there, admiring the landscape, feeling peace, being grateful to yourself for conquering your resistance.
But only when you descend, then you can observe the mountain. Understand where you were, what you went through.
Now, you understand...
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In case you want to get in contact with Chopes for his guiding services, here's his
facebook.
